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Ouzbékistan - Boukhara

de Fredy, 06-10-2006

Wow Bukhara

Result of the first night in Uzbek trains: Good! The beds are a little bit to short, but it was comfortable anyway. 15 min before arriving to Bukhara, the controller collects the blankets and sheets. I keep my train ticket, substitute of a registration ticket.
I meet the French guys who spent the night in other wagon. What normally takes me hours, I do it in 30 min, i.e. finding transportation to the center and a suitable hotel. They bring me to Madina’s guesthouse (Mehtar Anbar, 18). I get a room for 5000 soms (4$). I accompany the French’s to a place where one can rent showers per hour. On my way back, I get lost in the labyrinth of streets of the old town. Luckily I meet my personal “guides”, Charlie and Josland who show me the way… again!
Once in the guesthouse, I do full service: toilets, shower and laundry!
Exploration of the city: It’s amazing! You hardly see a car, every time I turn my head, an imposing Medressa or Mosque appears in front of me. It feels like being in a lost sandy city.
The afternoon is Ark time: The Ark in on an artificial hill where Emir had his palace. Some walls date form 300 BC but most of it has been reconstructed in the 16th century. When the Bolsheviks arrived in 1918, the Emir fled and deposited all his gold in a Swiss bank. Years later, descendants claimed for their heritage but the bank replied: “When Bukhara becomes an Emirate again, the gold will be restitute”… what in other words mean: “forget it!”.
Ramadan days, I’m invited to have dinner at the guesthouse. Only the grandmother is present in the courtyard. She tells me that the rest of the family is in the fields collecting cotton, for 1 or 2 months. Cotton fields are found all over the country, since the URSS. I can imagine one of Lenin’s experts pointing hazardously this region affirming that it is the most propitious place to grow it, changing in minutes the life of thousand of families in the country side.

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