At 7 am, I go straight to the Chinese trucks to conclude a deal. They ask 30$ to Kashgar, I propose 20$, they refuse. I have breakfast and when I'm done, around 9 am, the trucks are already crossing the border! Luckily, they're stopped at the customs. Before reaching them, I have to pass 2 controls. Actually there is just one official, the other is a curious official that wants to play with my passport and show his authority.
At the checkpoint, the custom officer asks me to empty my huge backpack, he tries my sunglasses and makes a grimace that is supposed to be funny, I don't smile at all. He becomes serious again and put them back. Suddenly, Nurik's friend (the one I met yesterday), tells his colleague to let me go. The pass control follows, and bye bye Kyrgyzstan.
I completely forgot the Chinese truck but a soldier stops one and forces the driver to bring me out of the country. He accepts reluctantly and apparently he doesn't have a choice. When I get in he asks 30 $. Mmm, he HAS to take me out: "No, 15$". He accepts. I think, I could've gone down to 10$ or say that the customs took all my cash... he could've also kicked me out of his truck after the controls...
He's rough and not very friendly. I just wait to arrive to the legendary Kashgar. Before that, the Chinese customs. Aaaah, the difference is clear. The Chinese offices are clean, flat screens and a X-ray machine that works! I don't need to empty my backpack again. The officer pretends to be surprised by something on his X-ray detector. He asks for this tiny little red dot on his screen. Obviously, I don't know what it is. A good pretext to start empting my small backpack. They stop at my journal: "notes for internet for papa and mama", "papa and mama?"... they laugh and let me go: "ok, ok".
That was all about formalities. I'm in Chinese territory again! In Kashgar, I do the usual "must-tour" to find a hotel. I walk almost all the main avenue "Renmin Lu" and see part of the old town. My final choice is "Seman Road Hotel". 70 Yuan/night (7 euros), a little bit expensive but I need full service bathroom and good sleep after 2 days and a half on the road.
Before this I pass by a guesthouse where there is just a guest, a local old man and maybe me. I have a look at the bathrooms... I feel like running out! I ask the young man running the place why they are so disgusting? Of course he doesn't understand; I propose him to pass tomorrow and stay if they're cleaner. I heard some French tourist were refused to stay there... did they take me for a Pakistani?
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