
Spectacular, amazing, extremely fun, unbelievable are adjectives that miss the “superlative” detail that describes properly the day!
As expected, at 8h30 I jump into the bus for a 2 hours ride. Nothing new to report here, just the flaming mountains, flame formations on the surfaces giving the impression of a burning desert.
Shanshan is rather a big city with a well organized bus service. I look for someone to ask about the huge sand dunes. A charming goo looking woman passes by... she speaks English as well!!! “How come you speak English?”, “I’m an English teacher.”, isn’t it a good sign for the day?
In the bus to the dunes, I realize, I’m not in a tourist city at all!! All the passengers (about 30, all sit) stare at me. The controllers, 3 of them in the bus, laugh at me an tell me to sit down. Bus prices are fixed depending on the distance of the journey and the controllers play joyfully with their colorful tickets, a color per tariff.
The terminus is right in front of the main gate, the only attractive thing of this other money maker is the gate’s design, a big camel. Behind it the dunes, I was expecting to find! So imposing, so sandy!
I avoid to enter to their tourist complex, I’m just interested in climbing the mountains, I head to the left. I try through a cotton field. The farmer shows me the way back to the entrance. I make him understand, I just want to climb the dunes, not go to their fancy installations. He asks for money to let me through. I make a huge “HA!” and go back searching other path.
About 50 meters further, I find the right one... until I find a 2 meters high fence. When I’m about to climb over it, I see a guy watching me on the other side... maybe, I should ask him first... His dog doesn’t look very convinced about that, but the owner odds and let me through. The other side looks like an extension of the tourist complex under construction. There are paths that lead straight to the dunes. Near this spot, some jeeps driving around, a rally training? Luckily they don’t drive deep in the desert (I can’t hardly imaging them driving over the dunes).
My first steps on the sand are memorable... having all this landscape a “few” steps away gives an enormous freedom sensation. After those “few” steps (let’s say 1 Km), I understand the best strategy is climbing barefoot. It’s always a pleasure walking on sand, but climbing a dune in the Taklamankan desert is the highlight of the whole Xinjiang stay! The further I go, the more fun I get. Freak-out photo session follows.
In my excitement after each peak, I see other behind which is fixed as the next target, always ready to find out what is behind! On my way back, I’m amazed about all the distance walked.
The time rushes. The last bus to Turpan leaves in 3 hours, I’ve been walking for 4 out there! I run through the dunes and after every one there is a new one, and so on, and so on... I have enough water but what if not, or if the sun goes down or I loose the orientation? What looks like a paradise can quickly turn into a nightmare!!! I prefer to avoid those macabre thoughts and continue. 90 min later and don’t still see the town. I relativize, and prefer to see it as little bit of “chilli sauce” on the whole picture.
I arrive to the bus station 10 min (18h40) before the departure, I have the time to buy something to eat... everybody is happy, cool and smooooooth! I’m exhausted! |